Do you have chicken pox?

No. I just went to a yoga class in an outdoor room at sunset, overlooking rice paddies, in a tropical climate with lots of other carbon dioxide emiting invidiuals.


Never ever again. I stopped counting when I hit 40 bites on my left leg.

Transport!

Transport! Transport! It is shouted from almost anyone on every street corner just like the newspaper boys did in the 1930's.

When you've been moving around as much as we have, you get to use to hearing it, and you get used to using many different types of transport. Here's the short list:

Our Four Itchy Feet:

Pedal Bikes:

Pedicab:

Moto Bikes:

Tuk-Tuks:

 one of the various types of rickshaws:

Street Cab (in their stylish Bangkok color):

Buses (the nicest one we took by far!):

Southeast Asia's Gondola (the little boat, not the many tug boats):

Motorboats:

Ferry (we crossed while sitting inside a bus - something neither of us wants to do again): 

Various types of subways:

 

And of course, airplanes:

Aren't you just tired looking at all those options!

We're settling into Ubud very nicely. It's still the rainy season here, so we're finally making use of our new rain jackets. We just need to get better about making sure we bring them with us. (Getting caught in the downpours is only fun for, mm, the first three times.) We've found a wonderful little bungalow complex to 'make home' for the next week or two. It's been really great to start showing James the various areas of Bali and particularly of Ubud that was my home a few years ago.

We made it to Bali

And I can tell you, Lizzie has never looked more beautiful than when she did haggling over the cost of a cab speaking Indonesian!

Lots of Photos!

It is our last evening in Vietnam.  We have, so far, managed not to be run over by onrushing scooters and motorbikes!  Here are pictures, from Sukhothai (Thailand) through Siem Reap (Cambodia).  Phenom Phen and Vietnam pictures will have to wait.

Buddha at a temple in Sukhothai:

Annie in front of a giant Buddha (Sukhothai):

The moat around the old city of Chiang Mai (Thailand):

Together at the city wall of old Chiang Mai:

Night bus to Bangkok!

First view of Angkor Wat:

The jungle has started to take over (first is from Ta Prohm, second from Ta Som):

In case you weren't sure how BIG the trees were (Ta Prohm):

Man made mountains are all over the old city of Angkor (well, temples that are made to replicate mountains).  The steps are steeper than they look!

View of Angkor Wat at sunrise:

Bantei Srei - the woman's temple, carvings so fine they could not have been done by the hands of men:

The famous faces carved into the Bayon:

Wall carving from the Bayon:

Outer wall of Angkor Wat, every square inch is carved!

Siem Reap at night:

Your faithful bloggers, hot and a little sweaty...

Next stop, Singapore!

In case you didn't know...

My wife really, really, REALLY, loves bananas.

She won't buy them often in the U.S. because they have to be shipped in from elsewhere.  That isn't a problem here.

(I thought some of you might appreciate a translation of the last blog post)

We're in

Banana Heaven. :)

Where Toyota Camrys go to die... and other highlights so far

Be nice to your Camry, because if you ever end up in Cambodia, odds are you will be riding in it again.  90% of the cars here are Toyotas, and probably 80% of those are Camrys (every model year you could imagine).

Best line from a hawker: selling souvenir's outside a temple at Ankor, a very cute young girl got frustrated when I (this is James!) said we didn't want anything.  Her response?  "You want nothing, I have nothing, I sell you nothing!  I give you good price, two nothing for the price of one!"

We made it to Phenom Phen, the land of the optional traffic rule.  Drive on the left?  Sure!  Drive on the right?  Not problem!  Red light?  That is only for cars, tuk-tuks and motorbikes are free to continue!  Just make sure you keep honking, because that magically prevents oncoming traffic from hitting you!

Good times...

Same Same but Different

Recap: Our last few days in Thailand were wonderful and we were sad to say our first goodbyes. We made it up to Chaing Mai with no story to be told. Our two full days there were of a lazy sort, sitting in cafes, wandering the back lanes and alley ways, stopping into a few temples. Aside from the continual ring of traffic around the outside of the old city and the shock of there now being 4 (yes, 4) Starbucks, it was a quiet visit to the 'cultural capital' of Thailand. We ate wonderful fish dinners at the night markets, enjoyed the old medieval fortress, and did a spot of tourist shopping. We were happy to have made the full journey north (originally, we weren't planning on it).

Our last post highlighted the trek down from the mountains, back into Bangkok, across the border, and into Cambodia. Which gets us to the last 4 day here in Siem Reap.

Ah, Siem Reap. An amazing little corner of the world, it has changed so much, yet remains the same; like the hawkers and the market stalls "same same but different." A brand spanking new international airport opened outside of town just after I left here in 2007. With it, it has brought many western high end hotels, a fancy shopping center, and tour buses. Did I mention tour buses, because now, there are tour buses. Lots of them. The town center along the river is very much the same with it's markets and dusty sidewalks. The restaurants, tuk-tuks, motos, cars, and buses have quadrupled, forcing you to share your experience here with others.

We both agree, the temples of Angkor are simply awe-inspiring. Words do not describe and pictures do not do justice. Amazing, spectacular, moving, a revelation, calming, other-worldly, impressive. Starting with Angkor Wat at sunset was overwhelming with the views, the size, and the crowds! We were happy to sneak out there for the evening just to begin processing the enormity of the Angkor Kingdom. The first full two days we hired a tuk-tuk driver (a nice guy who's birthday was on Valentine's Day and ended up buying James a cowboy hat. Little strange, but good guy) and toured the further reaching temples. Trying to see the temples in chronological order, we started with the Rolous group, which are the first temples to be built and about half an hour away from Angkor proper. For the late morning and afternoon we followed the 'Grand Circuit' an outer ring to Angkor of some smaller, yet very impressive temples.

The second day, we went out to Bantay Srie (about an hour + drive) to see the temple 'build by women.' It is said that the stone carving and detail is too fine to have been done by man, therefore only women could be built. A site very different than any of the others, it is smaller, made with pink sandstone, and the intricate detail is everywhere! But, pulling up, I was completely flabbergasted.  When I was at that site in 2007, there was one other couple at the temple with me, it was along a dirt road with a few market stalls around the entrance. No one bothered making the trek out to the small but wonderfully detailed temple. This time: there's no dirt road, no road-side vendors. Instead, they've built up a massive parking lot (all those tour buses have to park somewhere!), proper cafe's and shops, a mini museum, nature walk....the list goes on. The amount of people made it hard to enjoy and we spent little time there. The afternoon, spent on the 'Small Circuit' where the crowds weren't so bad and we were able to feel the sites, not just 'see' them. We enjoyed being able to really  hike around, and even up some of the very tall mountains. There were some small moments of fear when we looked down the steep stairs, but we rallied and enjoyed the views. We both agreed that although it's hotter, going around mid-day, when the tour groups are having their air conditioned lunch, makes the best viewing time. It's hard to really experience the reverence that belongs to these massive sites of worship when you are surrounded by others who are only there for the photo opportunities.

Our last day out, we got up early to rent bikes, biked out to one of the tallest mountain temples to see the sun rise, and made our way out to the pinnacle: Angkor Thom, the city, and Angkor Wat. The morning was priceless, watching the mist burn off on top off the tree tops and the peeks of Angkor Wat.  It was a beautiful way to start the day. We took our time making our own way in the vast ancient city and spent the heat of the afternoon in the cool shade around Angkor Wat's impressive moat. Equally impressive to the size and grandeur of the temples themselves are there external lay out. Most are built around a huge moats, and some are build on an island in the middle of entirely man-made lakes! The kings who built these monuments were trying to replicate the mythical Mount Meru. In doing that, they wanted to build tall 'mountain' temples, reaching towards the sky. No one is sure why the giant moats came with them, some guess it was an impressive feat that they could do, so they did. My theory: air conditioning.

All in all, it's been a great visit to Siem Reap and Angkor. I am so happy that I've been able to share this sacred place with James, and we've really enjoyed the time. It will be a hard Valentine's Day to beat, if not romantic-wise, at least on the grand-scale. We will upload photos at a later date. (It's a James thing, I'm tired, the internet is slow, and they aren't on the computer yet.)

 Today, we have a Noon bus down to Phnom Phen. I met a lovely Argentina couple who've recommended a guest house and a few other things for us that we'll check into tonight. We'll have two nights there before making our good-byes with Cambodia and heading into Vietnam for our last week on the mainland of SEA. Time flies.

And for those keeping score: I'm losing on bug bites now too! The Thai mosquitoes didn't like me, but the Cambodian ones sure do! No sun burns or blisters to report!

Cambodia at last!

10 hour overnight bus ride to Bangkok (arrive at 5:00am!)...

4 hour bus ride to the border...

Walk across the border dodging visa scams and hire an illegal taxi!

2 hour drive right down the center line, dodging trucks, bikes and push carts, horn blaring all the way...

Finally arrive at Siem Riep.  Tired, but alive!

Tonight, the reward: Ankgor at sunset!

James tries to blog...

Annie was nice enough to let me make a blog post…

We made it to Sukothai yesterday evening, and have settled in nicely at a little guest house with private bungalows and a pool.  It is amazing how much cooler it is just 6 hours north of Bangkok.  Walking the half-mile to see the Emerald Buddha and Royal Palace at 8 in the morning in Bangkok felt like the hottest, most humid afternoon I have ever experienced in the Midwest.  Here, however, we were able to spend the whole morning walking the old city without too much trouble (there is also more shade here, which helps).

We have decided to change plans a bit.  We were going to head back to Bangkok from here as the first step to crossing into Cambodia by land at Poi Pet.  But instead we are going to first continue north to Chiang Mai.  We hope to spend two night (almost three full days) there before taking an overnight (12 hour!) bus ride down to Bangkok (please send us sleep thoughts for that night).  We should get into the Bangkok bus station early the next morning, and immediately grab a 4 hour bus out to the border.  Once we fight our way through the scams and hawkers, we should be in a taxi on our way to Siam Reap (only 2 more hours!).  A rough day of traveling, but 3 days at Angkor is our reward at the end!  After that, another bus down to Phnom Penh for a day or two and then (hopefully!) a boat down the Mekong to Vietnam.  If we can’t get a boat, it is onto another bus for us, but we would much rather float if we can.

So far, everything has gone really smoothly.  There were some interesting moments trying to catch a minivan to Ayuthaya From the victory monument in Bangkok.  Negotiating transport when you can’t speak any of the native language presents some challenges.  Annie maneuvered us through to the right van at the right price and the journey went very smoothly.

The old cities in Ayuthaya and Sukothai are both incredible.  Ayuthaya is a bit more challenging the navigate, as the modern city has grown up right amidst the ruins.  Biking the sometimes-busy streets (and not getting lost) can seem more like a thrill ride than a leisurely day.  The boat trip around the island (in a traditional long boat powered by what looked like a rigged up car engine) more than made up for it.  Watching the sun set behind the temples on the banks of the river was one of the highlights so far.

Sukothai is much more relaxing.  The cooler weather made it pleasant (if still very warm!) to stroll the grounds of the historical park.  Both of us are eager to do more research on this history of these two old Thai capitals.  We hope you like the pictures!  They don’t do justice to what we are seeing, especially the size of some of the Buddhas, they really have to be seen to be believed.

Oh, and we have both started eating much too much roti.  Light dough quick fried in oil stuffed with banana (or other goodies) toped with sugar and condensed milk.  No better way to end a meal!  Just find the street vendor making roti to order! 

Tomorrow is another six hour bus ride north to Chiang Mai.  Our next update should be from Cambodia!

And for those of you keeping score at home.  Annie is well ahead in blisters and sunburns, while James has a slight lead in bug bites.  Luckily, all (except perhaps Annie’s blisters – which are finally healing) have been very minor!

Here are our first photos!

 Part of the temple where the Emerald Buddha is housed in Bangkok:

 A Chedi at Ayuthaya:

A Buddha carved amongst the tree roots at Ayuthaya:

 The old royal palace at Ayuthaya:

 And finally the giant reclining Buddha at Ayuthaya:

Chinese New Year - Who Knew?

We made it! 28 hours of travel, a 17 hour time change, and two tired travelers later, we collapsed into our hotel. Getting into town at 2 AM made our hotel choice easy that night: an airport hotel. Our first morning, not quite refreshed as we wanted, we conquered the Bangkok public bus and made our way over to old town Bangkok on Khao San Rd, in the heart of the Back-packers Ghetto. My second trip here, it all came back too quickly, but James took his first encounter in stride:  streets lined with market stalls selling everything imaginable, food stalls, street hawkers, tuk-tuk drivers, western music blaring, the heat, the humidity,  and TONS of people.

It is the start (or end, depending on who you ask) of Chinese New Year and the whole area is hopping with travelers. The Thai government has been giving holiday stipends to tuk-tuk drivers and free entry to many of the temples, make the area jammed packed. Everyone is in town, and the many, many home-stays are fully booked. We were lucky enough to get a room in a nicer hotel due to Jame's desire to have something pre-booked for our first real day in town.  After switching hotels, we spent the day walking, exploring, and getting oriented in the busy, bustling neighborhood.  Diving right into street food and the sites, we had a day of wandering, discovering a very pleasant river walk and park. On our second morning, we joined the crowds, hired a tuk-tuk driver and started seeing the Wats (a.k.a. temples). And although we might have ended up on one of the most beat-up tuk-tuks in the area, James thoroughly enjoyed the hectic, nail biting, ride. It was a perfect way to spend the morning before the heat of the day and we were able to see both the Wat Tramit, or Lucky Buddha (only open once a month to tourists) where James got his first lesson in Buddhist prayer, and also to the Golden Buddha, which stands 35 M tall. We were offered many blessings and had much luck bestowed on us, our marriage, and our families. (You all should be feeling much luckier these days.) After lunch, we attempted to see the Wat Pra Kaew and Grand Palace.  But thwarted by people overload, we rewarded ourselves with new swim-suits and a dip in the pool.

Today, we found ourselves up early and waiting for the Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace to open. Built in the 1500's, it was the first palace complex build in Bangkok and the old city was build around the royal residence. Later, it was converted and expanded into a monastery and temple complex. The Emerald Buddha now makes its home inside on of the temples.  Truly an awesome, awesome site to be seen as the morning sunshine gleams off the golden glass tile. Glad to have gotten there early, as the bus loads of Chinese tourists kept coming, we left just before lunch and the heat. For comparison, we decided to skip town on Khao San Rd and head into Siam Square, the heart of new Bangkok. A furiously quick moving part of town, it's modern shopping and transport makes you feel like you're somewhere altogether different. James has decided that both the new and old town areas have been laid out by an evil genius because it is so confusing to get around. All in all, it's been a beautiful contrast between old and new, tourists and locals.

Tomorrow, we will start our trip up north. We've got until the end of the week before we're due to enter Cambodia. We're planning on traveling to the previous two capitols of Thailand, with the first stop being Ayuthaya. Promise, we'll try to get some photos up on here soon!